[M0n:757]Post by 5KidsRacing on Oct 3, 2011 13:53:30 GMT -6
What You Need:
Step 1:
Mark your line for your front and rear axles across the bottom and up the sides of the body and also mark the centerline of the car. Layout how you want to have the weight positioned in the car body and draw lines representing the areas you want to cut out. For this example I am using 1/4" tungsten cubes. Make your lines accurately because you want you weights tight in the weight pocket. Cut out more area towards the front of the car than you need for your weight so you have room to add weight later to bring the car up to 5 ounces. Please note that I have not drilled my axles holes yet. I would recommend installing and securing all weight firmly prior to drilling you axles holes. I believe this helps keep your axle holes lined up correctly and eliminates any material shifting.
Step 2:
I would expect the total amount of tungsten cube weight in the car to be between 3 and 4 ounces depending on the type of car and the level of the builder. I would install the amount of weight that results in a final car weight of around 4-1/2 ounces. If you are unsure of how much weight to install then use less, you can always add more weight later. I would reccomend adding the final 1/2 ounce during test/tune with tungsten putty. Place your weights on your layout and check and make sure everything looks correct. If you happen to have an odd cube count place more weight towards the DFW side.
Step 3:
You will need a fence on you drill press. You can simply use a straight wood board or metal bar and a couple clamps. I have a bar that is held to the table with a shoulder screw to allow it to swivel and I use a clamp at the other end to hold it at the desired position. You will also be using the depth setting adjustment on your drill press.
Step 4:
Install the 1/8" drill bit in your drill press and use the depth setting adjustment to adjust the depth so the bit goes to the bottom of the weight pocket cutout. The point of the bit will go a little deeper so that you get the full 1/8" diameter down to the bottom of the cutout. This will save time when you clean-up the cutout later. This point area will be filled in with epoxy later so it's not a problem.
Step 5:
While firmly holding the body drill (4) holes in the corners of the weight cutout where the corners of the cubed tungsten weights will be installed. Just take out enough material to include the corner area, don't get crazy and take more of the reserved axle drill area than needed. Later you don't want to be drilling your axles holes through any epoxy, just wood.
Step 6:
Install the 1/4" 4-fluted end mill in the drill press and set the depth to the bottom of the weight pocket. You want your weights to be just below the surface. Make certain that you are milling deep enough, if you drill too shallow and the weights protrude above the top of the body you may have difficulty drilling your axle holes correctly.
Step 7:
Adjust your fence so the end mill cuts on your cutout line and clamp it securly in place. Start at one end of the cutout and line up the end mill on the corner of the (2) cutout lines and mill your first hole. Make sure to mill all the way to the depth hard stop.
Step 8:
Continue milling holes down the entire length of the line. Keep the holes very close together so you leave very little wood stock to clean up later. You will need to hold the wood block against the fence firmly so it doesn't move around when milling the holes. The end mill will have a tendency to grab the wood and jump around. If you hold it firmly this will not be a problem. Also keep your hands away from the end mill at all times it is very sharp. Repeat this procedure for the rear section of the car.
Step 9:
After all of the holes are milled you will need to clean up this edge. Start at one end of the cut and while holding the end mill at the bottom of the hole slowly pull the wood body along the fence until you reach the other end of the cut. The end mill will essentially mill out the wood in a straight line. It is important that you removed as much material as possible in the previous steps so this step goes smoothly. The drill press doesn't like to be side loaded so if you left a large amount of stock this step will be difficult. As in the previous step it is crucial that you hold the body against the fence tightly so it doesn't jump around.
Step 10:
After the first side is done, turn the body around 180 degrees and cut the other side with the same procedure. You do not need to adjust the fence. Leaving the fence in this same position will create a mirror cut on the other side of the body.
Step 11:
The next step is to cut the lines that are across the width of the wood body. Turn the body 90 degrees and adjust the fence as required. Make holes across the width connecting the two previous cuts. After the holes are made allong the line follow the same procedure as before and mill across the cuts to make a straight edge. Once again hold the body firmly to the fence.
Step 12:
Next freehand cut out the center area by holding the body firmly against the drill press table and milling straight down. Move the body around and mill holes until the entire center section is mostly removed, then while holding the end mill down at the bottom stop move the body around and smooth out the pocket surface.
Step 13:
Repeat the same procedures as above for the weight pocket on the other side of the axle line.
Step 14:
After the weight pocket is completely milled take a utility blade and clean up the pocket where required. Next dry fit your weights in place and make sure they fit correctly. You may have to use a utility blade to further clean up some areas if the weights are tight or do not fit correctly.
Step 15:
With the tungsten cubes installed take a straight edge and drag it across the wood body surface and make sure you do not contact any tungsten cubes. If you do then clean up that area with a utility blade. This step is critical so that drilling axles holes later goes smoothly.
Step 16:
The next step is glueing the tungsten cubes firmly into the body. Mix up a good amount of 5 minute epoxy with a craft stick.
Step 17:
Use a craft stick and spread a thin layer of epoxy into a cavity. Make sure to fill the corner holes that you drilled with the 1/8" drill bit. Take the first tungsten cube and put it into position. Push it down so it is firmly seated into the epoxy. Then aplly a thin layer of epoxy to the sides of that cube that will contact the next cube(s).
Step 18:
Place the second cube into position against the first and firmly seat it in place. Coat the side(s) of that cube that will contact the subsequent cube(s) with epoxy. Repeat this procedure until all of the cubes are in place. Then perform the same steps on the cavity on the other side of the axle line.
Step 19:
After all of the tungsten cubes are firmly in place fill in any voids with epoxy. Before the epoxy sets up completely take a cloth and wipe up any excess epoxy. Set the body aside and let it dry completely before drilling you axles holes.
Comments:
This process of cutting weight pockets can be used for any sized cubes and in any orientation. My example shows a simple layout, but each builder will customize their weight pocket to suit their build style. This procedure should not be used if your plan is to reuse the tungsten cubes and also save the car. Removing the tungsten is easy, just break the car in half and break out the cubes. Then take the cubes and sand them on a belt sander or a piece of sandpaper to remove the epoxy. If the cubes happen to stay in groups that just makes the next build that much easier.
- Raw Car Body
- Standard Drill Press (not shown)
- (2) Small Clamps (not shown)
- (1) Straight Metal or Wood Bar (not shown)
- 5 Minute Epoxy (not shown)
- Combination Square
- 1/4" 4-Fluted End Mill
- 1/8" Drill Bit
- Pencil
- Approx. 4 Ounces Cubed Tungsten Weight (Weight can be purchased at: Derby Evolution or SpaceWalker Models)
Step 1:
Mark your line for your front and rear axles across the bottom and up the sides of the body and also mark the centerline of the car. Layout how you want to have the weight positioned in the car body and draw lines representing the areas you want to cut out. For this example I am using 1/4" tungsten cubes. Make your lines accurately because you want you weights tight in the weight pocket. Cut out more area towards the front of the car than you need for your weight so you have room to add weight later to bring the car up to 5 ounces. Please note that I have not drilled my axles holes yet. I would recommend installing and securing all weight firmly prior to drilling you axles holes. I believe this helps keep your axle holes lined up correctly and eliminates any material shifting.
Step 2:
I would expect the total amount of tungsten cube weight in the car to be between 3 and 4 ounces depending on the type of car and the level of the builder. I would install the amount of weight that results in a final car weight of around 4-1/2 ounces. If you are unsure of how much weight to install then use less, you can always add more weight later. I would reccomend adding the final 1/2 ounce during test/tune with tungsten putty. Place your weights on your layout and check and make sure everything looks correct. If you happen to have an odd cube count place more weight towards the DFW side.
Step 3:
You will need a fence on you drill press. You can simply use a straight wood board or metal bar and a couple clamps. I have a bar that is held to the table with a shoulder screw to allow it to swivel and I use a clamp at the other end to hold it at the desired position. You will also be using the depth setting adjustment on your drill press.
Step 4:
Install the 1/8" drill bit in your drill press and use the depth setting adjustment to adjust the depth so the bit goes to the bottom of the weight pocket cutout. The point of the bit will go a little deeper so that you get the full 1/8" diameter down to the bottom of the cutout. This will save time when you clean-up the cutout later. This point area will be filled in with epoxy later so it's not a problem.
Step 5:
While firmly holding the body drill (4) holes in the corners of the weight cutout where the corners of the cubed tungsten weights will be installed. Just take out enough material to include the corner area, don't get crazy and take more of the reserved axle drill area than needed. Later you don't want to be drilling your axles holes through any epoxy, just wood.
Step 6:
Install the 1/4" 4-fluted end mill in the drill press and set the depth to the bottom of the weight pocket. You want your weights to be just below the surface. Make certain that you are milling deep enough, if you drill too shallow and the weights protrude above the top of the body you may have difficulty drilling your axle holes correctly.
Step 7:
Adjust your fence so the end mill cuts on your cutout line and clamp it securly in place. Start at one end of the cutout and line up the end mill on the corner of the (2) cutout lines and mill your first hole. Make sure to mill all the way to the depth hard stop.
Step 8:
Continue milling holes down the entire length of the line. Keep the holes very close together so you leave very little wood stock to clean up later. You will need to hold the wood block against the fence firmly so it doesn't move around when milling the holes. The end mill will have a tendency to grab the wood and jump around. If you hold it firmly this will not be a problem. Also keep your hands away from the end mill at all times it is very sharp. Repeat this procedure for the rear section of the car.
Step 9:
After all of the holes are milled you will need to clean up this edge. Start at one end of the cut and while holding the end mill at the bottom of the hole slowly pull the wood body along the fence until you reach the other end of the cut. The end mill will essentially mill out the wood in a straight line. It is important that you removed as much material as possible in the previous steps so this step goes smoothly. The drill press doesn't like to be side loaded so if you left a large amount of stock this step will be difficult. As in the previous step it is crucial that you hold the body against the fence tightly so it doesn't jump around.
Step 10:
After the first side is done, turn the body around 180 degrees and cut the other side with the same procedure. You do not need to adjust the fence. Leaving the fence in this same position will create a mirror cut on the other side of the body.
Step 11:
The next step is to cut the lines that are across the width of the wood body. Turn the body 90 degrees and adjust the fence as required. Make holes across the width connecting the two previous cuts. After the holes are made allong the line follow the same procedure as before and mill across the cuts to make a straight edge. Once again hold the body firmly to the fence.
Step 12:
Next freehand cut out the center area by holding the body firmly against the drill press table and milling straight down. Move the body around and mill holes until the entire center section is mostly removed, then while holding the end mill down at the bottom stop move the body around and smooth out the pocket surface.
Step 13:
Repeat the same procedures as above for the weight pocket on the other side of the axle line.
Step 14:
After the weight pocket is completely milled take a utility blade and clean up the pocket where required. Next dry fit your weights in place and make sure they fit correctly. You may have to use a utility blade to further clean up some areas if the weights are tight or do not fit correctly.
Step 15:
With the tungsten cubes installed take a straight edge and drag it across the wood body surface and make sure you do not contact any tungsten cubes. If you do then clean up that area with a utility blade. This step is critical so that drilling axles holes later goes smoothly.
Step 16:
The next step is glueing the tungsten cubes firmly into the body. Mix up a good amount of 5 minute epoxy with a craft stick.
Step 17:
Use a craft stick and spread a thin layer of epoxy into a cavity. Make sure to fill the corner holes that you drilled with the 1/8" drill bit. Take the first tungsten cube and put it into position. Push it down so it is firmly seated into the epoxy. Then aplly a thin layer of epoxy to the sides of that cube that will contact the next cube(s).
Step 18:
Place the second cube into position against the first and firmly seat it in place. Coat the side(s) of that cube that will contact the subsequent cube(s) with epoxy. Repeat this procedure until all of the cubes are in place. Then perform the same steps on the cavity on the other side of the axle line.
Step 19:
After all of the tungsten cubes are firmly in place fill in any voids with epoxy. Before the epoxy sets up completely take a cloth and wipe up any excess epoxy. Set the body aside and let it dry completely before drilling you axles holes.
Comments:
This process of cutting weight pockets can be used for any sized cubes and in any orientation. My example shows a simple layout, but each builder will customize their weight pocket to suit their build style. This procedure should not be used if your plan is to reuse the tungsten cubes and also save the car. Removing the tungsten is easy, just break the car in half and break out the cubes. Then take the cubes and sand them on a belt sander or a piece of sandpaper to remove the epoxy. If the cubes happen to stay in groups that just makes the next build that much easier.
